How to Take a Glare-Free Headshot While Wearing Glasses

Set Up Your Light Source at a 45-Degree Angle

Think of your glasses as two small, curved mirrors on your face. The goal is to angle those mirrors so they reflect something dark, not a bright light. The single most effective trick is to place your main light—a window, a lamp, a softbox—at a 45-degree angle to you. Don't stand facing it head-on. Turn your body about 30 degrees away from the light, then turn your head back towards it. This simple pivot changes everything. The light now skims across the lenses instead of blasting straight into them. I tell clients to imagine they're showing off their favorite jacket's lapel to the light. That slight torso turn is your first line of defense.

Tilt Your Chin Down and Your Glasses Up

Now, let's fine-tune your posture. Most people instinctively lift their chin to avoid a double chin, which is a disaster for glare. Instead, I want you to do two opposing motions. First, drop your chin slightly—think of nodding a gentle "yes." Second, use your finger to push the arms of your glasses up, just a millimeter, at the temples. This subtle tilt angles the lenses forward, making them point more toward the floor. You're creating a slanted roof for light to slide off. I once had a client, a lawyer, who did this and it eliminated a massive reflection of my studio ceiling that looked like a white blob on his right lens. The change took three seconds.

Use a Window, Not Overhead Lights or a Flash

Your light source matters. Overhead kitchen lights or a harsh phone flash will almost guarantee a hot spot. They're small, bright points that create a sharp, unmistakable reflection. A large north-facing window on a cloudy day is your best friend. It's a huge, soft source that creates a gentle, even glow. If you see a reflection from a window, it will be a soft, faded rectangle you can often angle out. A flash reflection is a tiny, brilliant circle you cannot hide. If you must use artificial light, bounce it off a white wall or ceiling first. The bigger and softer the light source, the easier your job becomes.

The Common Mistake: Standing Directly Facing Light

Here’s the mistake I see in 90% of DIY attempts: the subject stands square to a window, smiles, and snaps. The result is two perfect white squares reflected dead-center in each lens, obscuring their eyes. It makes people look like they have shiny, blank eyes. The fix isn't to move farther away; it's to change the angle. Remember that 45-degree rule. If you're using a phone, step to the side so the window is beside the camera, not behind it. Your camera should be in the shade, and you should be turned toward the light. This positions the dark body of the camera where the reflection would be.

Check Your Shot for Reflections Before Finishing

Never assume you got it right. Zoom in on your camera's screen. Scan each lens meticulously for any bright spots. Check the top third of the lens especially—that's where overhead lights love to hide. Sometimes a reflection is subtle, a faint haze over the eye. If you see one, don't just reshoot the same way. Make a specific adjustment: tilt your head a half-inch lower, or shift your feet two inches to the left. Take another test shot and zoom in again. This inspect-and-adjust loop is non-negotiable. I do it on my professional camera's large screen every single time, without fail.

Glasses don't have to be a problem; they're just a detail that requires a specific technique. By angling your light, tilting your frames, choosing a soft source, avoiding the frontal assault, and checking your work with a critical eye, you keep the focus on your expression—not on distracting shiny spots. Your next headshot will look professional because the viewer will see your eyes clearly, and that connection is everything.